We are about to head off to the country palace of Catherine the Great for our final Big Excursion in St Petersburg. Our last night at the Mariinsky was superb. We started with a glass of champagne, then proceeded to our box (all the leg room we needed this time) to enjoy the vulgar, showy and extremely enjoyable Le Corsaire (The Pirate). In the finale we not only had a squadron of dancers and students from the school on stage, but three fountains with real water! A fitting end to our Mariinsky pig-out.
On Sunday morning we had been to St Nicholas Cathedral and were fortunate to arrive at the right time in the long service for the actual communion with all its orthodox ritual, accompanied by the stunning singing of its choir - what a privilege to be there.
Tomorrow (Tuesday) will be picked up by a driver to go to the station for the 4.00pm train to Moscow. Another driver will be waiting at the Moscow station (we sincerely hope) at 9.30pm to take us to our hotel, which is operated by the Russian Orthodox Church and is in the grounds of its monastery and cathedral - the Patriach lives there (in the monastery, not the hotel - but, he may pop over for a comfortable bed!)
I dare say we might get another blog entry done before we leave St Petresburg.
Love to all.
Sunday, September 30, 2007
Saturday, September 29, 2007
A BIT OF CALM
Saturday brought a bit of calm (for part of the time, not the whole, of course). The hydrofoil to Peterhof was luxurious and relaxing (airline-type seats and the Gulf of Finland whizzing by). The gardens and fountains seriously rival Versailles and the palace itself is over the top, but charming. We decided on a Big Lunch, as we realised that our timetable, with evening performances, meant grabs of this and that rather than a Real Meal. So, in the autumn leaf setting, we dined on a terrace, with pork hocks on red cabbage - wait until you see the photo!
The evning at the opera - our favourite, Tchaikovsky's Eugene Onegin, was marred by our most expensive seats to date being crammed into the gallery with no leg room (Zoe might have squeezed in) and one seat with only half the stage viewable because the decoration of the royal box got in the way. The singing and orchestral playing made up for this nuisance and our evening wasn't spoiled.
Today we're off to St Nicholas Cathedral again to hear some liturical music (it's Sunday, by the way - I think the blog day headings and times are a bit askew)
The evning at the opera - our favourite, Tchaikovsky's Eugene Onegin, was marred by our most expensive seats to date being crammed into the gallery with no leg room (Zoe might have squeezed in) and one seat with only half the stage viewable because the decoration of the royal box got in the way. The singing and orchestral playing made up for this nuisance and our evening wasn't spoiled.
Today we're off to St Nicholas Cathedral again to hear some liturical music (it's Sunday, by the way - I think the blog day headings and times are a bit askew)
Friday, September 28, 2007
Where are all the cars?
Who knows what may happen this time ......
The cars are very much alive and living in St Petersburg! I will try again to share a few moments of time here with you all.
It is impossible to be here without being overwhelmned by the noise, rush and chaos of the roads. We are spending a lot of time trying to get across major thoroughfares like Nevsky Prospekt ( read Chapel Street/Toorak Road on a Friday at 5.30 only it seems to be all the time!) Each time we step out there are cars coming at terrifying speed not just from left anf right but any other direction they feel like - at least that is what it feels like.
The cars which , in the main are new, are driven by all ages and stages. The only group that seems to missing are elderly women. Perhaps they have more sense! Mix these in with trolley cars, ordinairy buses which range from the very new to those held together with tape and paint, myriads of small communter vans which can be hailed anywhere and see to also swing into the kerb anywhere too and the occasonal pink stretch limo and you can get some idea of the scene.
Suddenly the hydrafoil sounds very appealing....
The cars are very much alive and living in St Petersburg! I will try again to share a few moments of time here with you all.
It is impossible to be here without being overwhelmned by the noise, rush and chaos of the roads. We are spending a lot of time trying to get across major thoroughfares like Nevsky Prospekt ( read Chapel Street/Toorak Road on a Friday at 5.30 only it seems to be all the time!) Each time we step out there are cars coming at terrifying speed not just from left anf right but any other direction they feel like - at least that is what it feels like.
The cars which , in the main are new, are driven by all ages and stages. The only group that seems to missing are elderly women. Perhaps they have more sense! Mix these in with trolley cars, ordinairy buses which range from the very new to those held together with tape and paint, myriads of small communter vans which can be hailed anywhere and see to also swing into the kerb anywhere too and the occasonal pink stretch limo and you can get some idea of the scene.
Suddenly the hydrafoil sounds very appealing....
HEAPS OF HARPS
Jim was justifiably upset about the Dortmund Opera House's skimpy (and unmusical) approach to the harp, demanding he ccombine two harp parts on one instrument - a physical impossibility. We thought of Jim when surveying the orchestra at the Mariinsky - 2 harps, 6 double basses etc - regulation issue. A huge orchestra and chorus (the last time we saw so many people on stage was at the Met) plus dancers galore mean the Russians do it properly - with so many productions on (7 days a week), it must be chaos backstage. It was a bit of a relief to have the audience respond to an over-long interval at Cinderella with slow clapping. The production of Life for the Tsar was wonderful - the 4.5 hours went in a flash - a very Russian piece which is never seen outside of this country - we were privileged to see it.
We head off on the hydrofoil this morning to Petershof - we walked TOO MUCH yesterday, so will take it at a leisurely pace today.
On a family note: congratulations to Zoe for being singled out for her specialist training next year - what a whiz of a daughter-in-law!
Would Jeremy please phone Maree at The ABS to check she has the blog address - we're not sending postcards, and would like the Russians on the staff to read our blog instead. Thanks!
We head off on the hydrofoil this morning to Petershof - we walked TOO MUCH yesterday, so will take it at a leisurely pace today.
On a family note: congratulations to Zoe for being singled out for her specialist training next year - what a whiz of a daughter-in-law!
Would Jeremy please phone Maree at The ABS to check she has the blog address - we're not sending postcards, and would like the Russians on the staff to read our blog instead. Thanks!
Thursday, September 27, 2007
THE CARS THAT ATE ST PETERSBURG
It has happened again: Christine wrote about the cars and the blog retaliated by eating up her words. We'll write something, hopefully, when we get back in the afternoon before going to the opera.
Wednesday, September 26, 2007
SETTLING INTO THE HURLY BURLY
If you wish to see our apartment, go to http://www.roxana-apartments.com/ then to Fontanka 69
Christine wrote a section on this post before the above reference to our apartment's website. It disappeared for some reason, so we headed off on our Thursday excursions to the Church of the Spilled Blood (a rather off-putting title, but a Tsar was murdered on that site) and to the Hermitage. The Hermitage would take days to cover, so we returned home once exhaustion set in and Christine is soaking in a bath before we go to the ballet, Cinderella at the Mariinsky Theatre. I will re-cap on her vanished comments on the hurly burly of this crazy city.
St Petersburg was once an elegant combination of Venice (with its canals), Paris and Bath. It's now crumbling, but is being restored (rather randomly). Everywhere you go, buildings are clad in plastic, paths are diverted and roads are being dug up. It's chaotic, dirty - yet absolutely fascinating. On Wednesday we orientated ourselves and tried out the local buses - we were nearly stranded down in a port area, but managed to make it back to the centre. We ate again at our little local cafe, which has good food - tonight we'll return from the ballet and cook our own eggs.
Tomorrow we'll go out of town to Petershof, the Tsar's summer palace, then will have the evening at the opera, Life for the Tsar (we're thematic, if nothing else), 4.5 hours of spectacle. As it starts at 6.00pm, I suppose eggs will be on the menu again.
Christine wrote a section on this post before the above reference to our apartment's website. It disappeared for some reason, so we headed off on our Thursday excursions to the Church of the Spilled Blood (a rather off-putting title, but a Tsar was murdered on that site) and to the Hermitage. The Hermitage would take days to cover, so we returned home once exhaustion set in and Christine is soaking in a bath before we go to the ballet, Cinderella at the Mariinsky Theatre. I will re-cap on her vanished comments on the hurly burly of this crazy city.
St Petersburg was once an elegant combination of Venice (with its canals), Paris and Bath. It's now crumbling, but is being restored (rather randomly). Everywhere you go, buildings are clad in plastic, paths are diverted and roads are being dug up. It's chaotic, dirty - yet absolutely fascinating. On Wednesday we orientated ourselves and tried out the local buses - we were nearly stranded down in a port area, but managed to make it back to the centre. We ate again at our little local cafe, which has good food - tonight we'll return from the ballet and cook our own eggs.
Tomorrow we'll go out of town to Petershof, the Tsar's summer palace, then will have the evening at the opera, Life for the Tsar (we're thematic, if nothing else), 4.5 hours of spectacle. As it starts at 6.00pm, I suppose eggs will be on the menu again.
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
SETTLED INTO ST PETERSBURG
Flick was so kind in taking us to the Dusseldorf airport at some ungodly hour. We have become fans of Air Berlin, a wonderful boutique European airline - we changed planes at Berlin without any hassles and landed right on time in St Petersburg. A pity the lugguage took AGES to be unloaded. Our driver was waiting for us and took us on a hair-raising dash with death into the heart of the city in totally crazy traffic. Roxana (with whom I have been corresponding re the apartment) was waiting at our canal-side dwelling (half of the city is coated in plastic, being renovated). Our building is full of dust in the corridors, but the apartment is specatcular - very spacious, with all mod cons INCLUDING A COMPUTER (no need to sniff out Internet Cafes) and a lovely outlook over the canal. We had no cash, so soon found an ATM and spent our first roubles at a downtown supermarket (trying to work out if the butter was really butter etc) and, while I tap this out, I'm enjoying a Rumanian Cab Sav. We'll try a little local restaurant next door in an hour or so (just point and hope for the best!)
Family note: we have a direct phone line - ref the list we gave you! We've had no emails yet on our gmail, but have enjoyed the comments on the blog.
Much love to everyone!
Family note: we have a direct phone line - ref the list we gave you! We've had no emails yet on our gmail, but have enjoyed the comments on the blog.
Much love to everyone!
Monday, September 24, 2007
NOW IT´S ON TO RUSSIA
We leave at 5.00am tomorrow for Dusseldorf for our flight to St Petersburg. We believe there is an internet cafe fairly near our apartment. If there are no more entries in our blog, the internet cafe must be a fiction!
Without Vanessa's expertise, there'll be no more photos on the blog - we so appreciate her help in providing the know-how to transfer some of our treasured moments onto Barrens in Europe.
Without Vanessa's expertise, there'll be no more photos on the blog - we so appreciate her help in providing the know-how to transfer some of our treasured moments onto Barrens in Europe.
Last day in Dortmund
Having had Vanessa and Mandana visit us in June/July, it was great to meet Mandana´s parents. Louise will be pleased to know they gave us more saffron! Expect rice when you next dine with the Barrens!
Sunday, September 23, 2007
Recipe for Flick's Apfelkuchen
After having shown you what was left of Flick's Apfelkuchen - here's the recipe for you to try!
Pastry:
250 g flour
100 g butter
1 egg yolk
1 tab. cold water
Rub butter into flour. Stir in egg yolk and water to make pastry. Then line a 22 cm springform tin with the pastry.
Peel, quarter and slice enough apples to fill tin. Arrange top layer artistically (or not) ; Squeeze 2 tab. of lemon juice over them.
Bake for 20 - 25 mins on 180 ° C (fan forced oven). Watch the apples don't burn too much on the top (see picture - Christine will tell you why!).
Take it out and pour over a custard of:
125 ml cream
2 eggs
100 g sugar
a few drops of vanilla
Turn down the oven to 160 °C and bake for a further 20 mins or until set and golden brown.
Enjoy!
Pastry:
250 g flour
100 g butter
1 egg yolk
1 tab. cold water
Rub butter into flour. Stir in egg yolk and water to make pastry. Then line a 22 cm springform tin with the pastry.
Peel, quarter and slice enough apples to fill tin. Arrange top layer artistically (or not) ; Squeeze 2 tab. of lemon juice over them.
Bake for 20 - 25 mins on 180 ° C (fan forced oven). Watch the apples don't burn too much on the top (see picture - Christine will tell you why!).
Take it out and pour over a custard of:
125 ml cream
2 eggs
100 g sugar
a few drops of vanilla
Turn down the oven to 160 °C and bake for a further 20 mins or until set and golden brown.
Enjoy!
More food in Dortmund
Lunch, then afternoon tea at Dortmund. With an Apfelkuchen like that, no wonder the empty plates!
Guten Tag Deutschland
Lunch on the boat restaurant Alte Liebe on the Rhein at Cologne with Vanessa and Flick after the flight from Rome (JB eating herring - his favourite!)
Farewell to Italy
Back in Rome, and drinks on the sidewalk with Liz and Franc - Franc is performing a farewell serenade at the tour group's last dinner at the hotel
Grab me a gondola
Christine at our hotel window (it's a luxury to have an indoor garden in Venice!) and John at the Peggy Guggenheim Museum
Birthday in Florence
Lie on your side for these (how DO you rotate an image?) for the birthday lunch and Franciscus serenading at our hotel rooftop pre-dinner birthday drinks
Tuesday, September 18, 2007
VENICE A GREAT SUCCESS
We have returned to Venice after three years and are finding new and exciting things to do. The city has constant variety and we are making most of our three days here. We are going to leave the tour group to its own devices and go alone to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum and a tour of the La Fenice opera house.
The time here has been filled with lots more paintings and old churches but we have also found the time to do a little shopping. We have bought some gorgeous Murano glass and John very cleverly found a material shop ansd I have just bought a beautiful length of silk for the wedding. I will be complimentary but different!
The time here has been filled with lots more paintings and old churches but we have also found the time to do a little shopping. We have bought some gorgeous Murano glass and John very cleverly found a material shop ansd I have just bought a beautiful length of silk for the wedding. I will be complimentary but different!
Sunday, September 16, 2007
LAST DAY IN FLORENCE
Sorry there have been so few entries on our blog, but we are spending too much time having a good time and the blogging opportuities are very few! This is the day after John's birthday. We had such great celebrations - went to the Uffizi gallery (entailing two hours of queueing to get in, but worth it), rooftop garden champagne party at our hotel with all the group before going to dinner - including birthday cake.
Now over to Christine:
Tuscany is just beautiful (although much warmer than we expected.) We spent today in Siena - a place we have not been to before. It is a continual joy for me to discover works of art I studied all those years ago at Monash. Today it was to rediscover the "Maesta" of Duccio, an early Renaissance artist. It is just the most beautiful serene work. Who knows what might be ahead in our travelling, but now it is time to go to Vespers at the Duomo.
Now over to Christine:
Tuscany is just beautiful (although much warmer than we expected.) We spent today in Siena - a place we have not been to before. It is a continual joy for me to discover works of art I studied all those years ago at Monash. Today it was to rediscover the "Maesta" of Duccio, an early Renaissance artist. It is just the most beautiful serene work. Who knows what might be ahead in our travelling, but now it is time to go to Vespers at the Duomo.
Thursday, September 13, 2007
WE ARE HAVING A GREAT TIME!
The tour is going well, with wonderful weather, food and grog! The frustration is in finding a convenient internet cafe and having time to write. It was infuriating in Rome to get as far as the first step of a blog, but not being able to work out how to proceed. NOW I KNOW! On Sept 14 I will do a full blog report from Florence. The camera has been marvellous. We hope to blog proof of that, too!
Monday, September 3, 2007
TOUR ITINERARY
Fri Sept 7 Depart SQ228
Sat Sept 8 - Tues Sept 11 Rome
Wed Sept 12 - Thurs Sept 13 Assisi, Spoleto
Fri Sept 14 - Sun Sept 16 San Gimignano, Siena, Florence
Mon Sept 17 - Wed Sept 19 Padua, Venice
Thurs Sept 20 Ravenna
Fri Sept 21 There's no place like Rome
Sat Sept 22 - Mon Sept 24 With the family at Dortmund
Tues Sept 25 - Mon Oct 1 St Petersburg
Tues Oct 2 - Wed Oct 3 Moscow
Thurs Oct 4 Depart SQ 375
Fri Oct 5 Arrive SQ 217
Sat Sept 8 - Tues Sept 11 Rome
Wed Sept 12 - Thurs Sept 13 Assisi, Spoleto
Fri Sept 14 - Sun Sept 16 San Gimignano, Siena, Florence
Mon Sept 17 - Wed Sept 19 Padua, Venice
Thurs Sept 20 Ravenna
Fri Sept 21 There's no place like Rome
Sat Sept 22 - Mon Sept 24 With the family at Dortmund
Tues Sept 25 - Mon Oct 1 St Petersburg
Tues Oct 2 - Wed Oct 3 Moscow
Thurs Oct 4 Depart SQ 375
Fri Oct 5 Arrive SQ 217
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